Blencathra via Hall's Fell Ridge

One of our aims this year was to get me up the summit of Blencathra.  Peter had worked out a route to get there without going along Sharp Edge, (cos there is no way I am going along that!), and this weekend was the weekend to do it.

Now he could have picked Scales Fell, or Doddick Fell, but he chose Hall's Fell and Hall's Fell Ridge.  He says he's not been up that way before, he didn't know  anything about the ridge and he didn't notice how tight the contour lines were on the map.  Me?  As soon as I saw the route,  I immediately spotted how tight the contour lines were, which led to immediate research and immediate images of how steep the sides of that ridge are.  

As it happens,  I got some help from Sharkey's Dream, and looking at a few pictures on his blog post convinced me it would be a good route, not scary at all.

Hah!

We decided Bank Holiday Monday would be the day, cos the met office (who are of course absolutely always right), said it would be absolutely stunningly gorgeous from about 1 o'clock onwards, so we didn't hurry and arrived at Threlkeld about midday, turning into the tiny village and heading for the car park.

The car park is not very big and you pay using the honesty box.  It lies just at the base of Gategill Fell, and is the perfect starting point for our walk.  Our late start paid off, as we approached, Blencathra had his head in the clouds.  Mist and grey swirled above us over the higher ground, but we knew it would disappear as the afternoon wore on.

As we reached the base of Hall's Fell, we watched in admiration as three farmers and their dogs worked together to bring a flock of sheep down the steep banks, across the river and into a pen.  The farmers probably thought we were slightly nuts as we watched, in awe at how the dogs worked, happy and excited.  We both have a real respect for such a well developed working partnership.  This scene never ceases to amaze, and we will always stand and watch in wonder.

So now we were at the start of the ascent.  I am very slow up hills, the steeper, the slower.  In front of us was one very steep hill.  But it was fine.  I took my time,  and Peter took his photographs.   We paused to enjoy the views as they began to open out.  We spent time trying to work out the names of the fells in the panorama before us, and gradually we made our way up over the bulk of the fell towards the ridge.  All the time, the clouds above us were clearing, and it wasn't long before there was little overhead except blue, blue sky and bright warm sun.  A cool breeze made it perfect.   

 I was sort of looking forward to seeing the ridge and making our way across.  Peter really didn't know what was coming and was pleased with the sight as we rounded the side of one burly knoll of rock and Hall's Fell Ridge suddenly appeared  before us.

 Generally Hall's Fell Ridge is a bit exposed and scrambly. 

Peter found it easy and exhilarating.  I found it fun, but occasionally scary. In fact, one small section was too exposed and scary for me to tackle,  and we had to backtrack and make our way along the side.  But then, making our way along the side and up was also scary, cos the side is steep.  But you avoid thinking about it, and keep making your way up and along.

With a little encouragement from Peter, I managed the rest of the ridge with just one more little wobble. 

The  final approach to the summit was quite steep, but not too difficult, and then, all of a sudden, we were there.  

The views are stunning, especially on bright sunny day.  It's amazing how steep and rough the sides are on the south and east of the mountain, compared to the gentler grassy slopes of the north and west.  I wanted to see Sharp Edge, so we walked over to a point above Scales Tarn to have a look.  Sharp Edge doesn't look like it deserves its reputation from where we were.

 We spent a while up there, on the top of the world.  Glorious in the sunshine, we could see everywhere laid out before us.  We sat for a time, soaking it all up.  

Sadly we couldn't stay forever, so we turned to make our way back along Blease Fell.  Such an easy route down in comparison to the way we'd gone up, although it was a long one.  To our delight, the paragliders came out to entertain us as we walked.

They rose on thermals from valley floor, gently wheeling around and around.  They soared past and above us, absolutely silent, rising on the warm air in front and behind.  It seemed they were everywhere.

 What a fantastic experience it must be to fly that way.  And how lovely for us to see them.

And then, it wasn't too long before we were back at the car, and then onto the beer garden of the Horse and Farrier Inn to finish the day with a long cool drink.    I thoroughly enjoyed that one.  Now I know what Hall's Fell Ridge is like, I would be very happy to do it again.  I might even go over that scary bit next time.

Just over 5 miles, and 2500ft of up. An excellent afternoon.

The Coledale Round - My Way

Most people set off to complete their walks with a purpose and a destination in mind.  I do usually.  But not this time.  This time it all just sort of happened.

It started with an intent and purpose.  It started with three men, a dog, and me meeting in Braithwaite at 9 am to do the Coledale Round.  The three men (and the dog) wanted to tackle all the highest and most difficult peaks in passing while they were at it, I would probably not.  So off we set up Grisedale Pike.  Trouble is, the four of them (including the dog) were like young whippets.  Me?  I was more like a worn out, over tired, grey old mongrel.

Looking over Braithwaite near the start of the walk 

The trouble with that situation is that the fast walkers are itching to get on and up the next hill, and no matter how patient they try to be, it feels like a forced march for really slow walkers like myself to keep up.  In fact, it sort of makes things worse, because in the effort to keep up, you get exhausted quickly, which actually makes you even slower.   You wish you had more lung power, better leg muscles and a magical energy source. But you don't, and it's exhausting and you stop enjoying the walk.

So we had a parting of the ways, cos I told them that I couldn't do it and I was gonna turn round at the top of the next ridge.  (Sleek How on the way up to Grisedale Pike by the way).  A quick goodbye, and off they went at their speed, and off I jolly well pottered at mine.

Thing is, now the pressure was off, I did exactly that.  I jolly well pottered. I pottered around at the bottom of Sleek How, taking pictures, looking around and  looking up at the final stretch to Grisedale Pike.  It didn't look that hard to be honest.  I mean, I was here now, and it would be stupid not to.

Looking Sleek How to Grisedale Pike

OK, so I took me time about it, but soon enough,  I was at the top with these wonderful views.

The big lump of Grasmoor centre left, Little Sand Hill in the middle,  and pointy Hopegill Head centre right

I sat and had a drink and nibble, and looked around a bit more.  I decided I wanted a better look down the valley in front of Hopegill Head, and I had loads of time, so I pottered on a little bit further.

Looking down the valley of Hobcarton.  Ladyside Pike on the left.

And I kept pottering.  Next I pottered across Coledale Hause, I wanted to have a good look down Gasgale.

Whiteside on the right

I liked the the little beck running down from Eel Crag

Eel Crag ahead, or is that above?

I spent some time at the head of Coledale looking down the valley and deciding whether or not I wanted to take the Miners Path back to Braithwaite.  But it was far too early, and like a kid, I didn't want to go home yet. I looked across at the other side of the valley, working out how to get to the paths I could see, but as easily as possible.  Now, there's this path that runs round the back of Eel Crag..............

As I set off,  I met a really lovely couple, who chatted away and kept me company for a bit.  Before you know it I was on top of High Crag....   Huh?

From High Crag - looking over Coledale. Blencathra, Skiddaw and chums dead ahead

A little further and we were on Sail, looking along Sail Beck at Buttermere

Buttermere can just be seen beyond Sail Beck

My companions went over Causey Pike from here.  But even at dawdley, pottering, gentle meandering speed, I knew me legs could only carry me so far and so high.  I chose to go down to Outerside and follow the path back to Braithwaite.  An excellent decision, even if I say so meself.

From Outerside, looking down past Stile End, Barrow and beyond.  Great Mell Fell in the distance.

Walking down Outerside, the sun came out, so I plonked me tired behind on a bit of heather and enjoyed a pit stop.  What a lovely place to rest.

Oh my.  Just lovely. 

Then it was the last stretch, and I couldn't resist taking this photograph before they disappeared from view.

My last little potter

So as it happens, I sort of did the Coledale Round.  I know I'd meant to at the start, but I hadn't planned to by the finish,  if you know what I mean.  So I was quite chuffed with meself.  (9 miles and 3700 ft of up by the way).

Next weekend it's Blencathra.  Now that is gonna be fun............

A Dales Weekend with the Walkers Forum - Swaledale

So, after a wonderful walk in Wensleydale yesterday, it was time for something completely different I'd decided to show Swaledale to the Walkers Forum  members, and take them to see the devastation caused by the lead mines of the 19th century.

We'd arranged to meet at Surrender Bridge, which, one of the forum members pointed out "is in the middle of nowhere!"  Despite a good turnout of the folks who'd joined me yesterday plus three, the sun decided it couldn't be bothered and we were left with dark clouds and drizzle for the whole day.  But Walkers Forum members are a cheerful bunch, and they certainly weren't gonna let a bit of sogginess spoil the occasion. So, after a bit of a delay, (cos we'd started in the middle of nowhere, which is hard to find apparently), we set off on a big loop to investigate the lead mines and smelting mills of Gunnerside Beck and more.

(By the way, many of the following photographs were taken during a different walk - you'll recognise the ones taken during the forum walk -grey skies and rain spots on the camera lens!)

Looking over Swaledale from Feetham Pasture

I remembered me manners this time, and made sure we had a "banana break" about a quarter of the way along.  And I remembered to find somewhere out of the wind and I even provided sweeties.  (See, my walk leading skills are improving.... (Sort of......  As long as you don't mention the word compass!)).

After the break, we continued our way around the side of Brownsey Moor into the little dale cut out by Gunnerside Beck and on to the first set of ruins and spoil heaps left by the mining industry. Weirdly, the torn and ruined landscape is striking and attractive. The spoil heaps and the mining scars somehow fit into the wild beauty of the surroundings.

Approaching Gunnerside Lead Mines

The walk continues alongside the beck, only now it's a gill, Blakethwaite Gill to be precise. It's odd to think that during the mining days, many people would have walked these paths daily to get to work and back. Now only a few people use them, to see the remnants of the industry those first walkers laboured in, to wonder at past lives, ruins and a changed landscape.

We walked up to the point where Blind Gill joins Blakethwaite Gill. There are more old smelting mill ruins here and the whole area is wonderfully photogenic.

Approaching Blind Gill 

The mill ruins, Blind Gill on the left, Blakethwaite Gill on the right

Looking back along Blakethwaite Gill to Gunnerside from the mill ruins

From here, we continued alongside the gill until we reached the Blakethwaite Dams.  I've never been here before, which is rather remiss of me, cos it's wonderful. We ate lunch behind the ruined dam at the top this waterfall.

Waterfall at Blakethwaite Dam

Up until this point, we'd walked over rugged ground, crossing becks and boggy patches, constantly watching where we put our feet.  Thankfully, there were gentlemen among us ready to offer a helping hand across the difficult bits. Our route back was so much easier, as all we hat to do was follow a track - back to the hushes above Gunnerside, and then across Melbecks Moor to Hard Level Gill.  In fact, it easy enough for the Three Musketeers to start playing I Spy.

 I spy with my little eye, something beginning with E.............

Looking over Blakethwaite Gill to Melbecks Moor from Blakethwaite

Nobody got that one, (we think Chris was being a bit tooooo clever,), the answer was epidermis.

Exposed as we were on the high ground, the wind blew hard and the drizzle was cold and sharp, but it wasn't long before we got over the moor to Hard Level Gill, and then on the little waterfall, Hard Level Force.

Our last stop was what is probably the most well known set of ruins of the area, The Old Gang Smelting Mills on Old Gang Beck.  If you look around the here, there is an old peat store, and more ruins nearby.  Information boards help you identify what's what. 

And then, we were quickly back at Surrender Bridge.  

It was a lovely walk, despite the weather.  My walking buddies were all excellent company and seemed to really enjoy the route, all of them wanting to do it again.  (Which is class and made me feel dead proud of little Gunnerside and Blakethwaite).  Thank you to the Three Musketeers, Helen, Lynn, Karl and Anne for keeping a smile on their faces despite the weather, and for letting me show them one of my favourite places in The Dales.

11 miles, and somewhere between 1850 and 2400 ft of ascent (depends which map loading or gps system you use).  Here's a map for anyone else who wants a go